As a London cyclist, a few days in the Dolomites is a rare treat to enjoy spectacular scenery if a little tough on the legs. The highlight of my charity cycle for Langdon was ascending the monstrous Stelvio Pass, the second highest road in the Alps. The 25km ride, rising 1800m to the top of the pass at 2760m, is a wonderful nature trail. The changing landscape and flora are as clear an indication of progress as my Garmin computer, the 48 numbered hairpins or the pain in my legs.
The road starts in a mixed forest with the summer delight of carpets of wild flowers on the verges of the road and the postage stamp sized meadows. Under the trees we could see the tall Aaron’s Rod, its near two metre tall grey stalks are ready to burst into yellow flowers. The name is a reminder of the story in the Book of Numbers when Aaron’s staff is left in the Tent of Meeting overnight and sprouts with blossoms.
As the gradient rises we continue up through the cool woods and occasional tunnel that seems to protect the road from rock falls. The occasional meadow is a wonderful spray of colour. The mass of yellow cowslips, are interspersed by white cow parsley, blue forget-me-nots and pink scabious.
Brian Berry in an alpine meadow.
One third up we pass the first and second hairpins and it also seems easy but then no more for several kilometres. The road meanders up through the forest where the broad leaf trees gradually give way to the pines. On a steep shady slope clinging to the rocks and a few branches is the Alpine Clematis. It’s four large paper like purple petals hang tired like my legs. I am struck how similar the leaves looks to the Clematis in my garden.
The numbered bends continue. I find it easier to count the prime numbers as there are only 15 and as each turn up the mountain the trees thin out until by turn 22 we reach the wide open space. Green hillside gives way in places to rocky scree and high up the snow covered pass looks imposing at the top of a grey green wall. The road like a folded ribbon snaking up the hillside beckons the tired cyclist. In the Giro they are probably powering up at close to 15 miles an hour, we continue our more modest pace.
Andy Cherkas, my companion in pain, and I stop on one of the bends. The steep slope, green from hardy mountain succulents is dotted with yellow pasque flowers with their fern like leaves.
A little further up I leapt off my bike and rushed to take a photograph of some clumps of Trumpet Gentians (Gentiana kochiana). This is the first time that I have seen these beautiful trumpet flowers that only grow high up in the mountains. The name gentian is after the Illurian King Gentius (about 200 BCE) who recognised the medicinal properties of the yellow gentian.
After a few more hairpins we came to a marker painted on the road, 5km to go. The gradient was close to 10% for most of the rest of the climb. At last we got to ski station and the top of the pass in the snow. With several layers of extra clothes I was able to have lunch and a wander amongst the tacky shops.
Over the other side, there was a long twisty descent. The road seemed carved out of a deep snowy blanket and I was glad to have added some extra layers. We sped past a herd of cows with their bells jangling on a high meadow just below the snow line. I had spotted one marmot on the way up and hoped to see more on the way down but concentrating on bike, the road and hairpin bends pushed aside all other thoughts. What a great ride.
wildonabike 